• 06Nov

    What? Did you think I was through talking about Madrid?

    No, no, I’m not done. I’m still there, actually, in my heart.

    No matter what the time of day or night you find yourself out on the streets of Madrid, you will not be alone. It’s difficult to photograph landmarks in Madrid because in addition to composing the landscape, you have to take into account the timing of all the people passing by. They stroll the alleyways, murmur in the cafes around the perimeter of the plaza, and argue on the monument steps. It is a pleasure to find yourself among them.

    The Spanish are notoriusly late diners — the restaurant scene in Madrid begins around 9:00, is in full swing between 10 and 11:00, and by midnight, everyone’s stumbling out for after-dinner clubbing, drinks or churros y chocolat.

    I can’t speak to the nightlife in terms of clubs — even without three kids in tow that’s not really my thing — but Madrid is a gloriously lively late-night city. Last year, while I was pregnant with Baybish, GoodLooking and I ditched the chickens with Grandma & Grandaddy and took a pre-baby vacation to Spain. Alone. We had some lovely nights there, and one I will not soon forget was the night we strolled Plaza Oriente and took photographs of Palacio Real after midnight. It was a pivotal night in my photographic life, the night I first began to see how I could lost in trying to capture an image. I remember balancing my point-and-shoot Olympus on the back of a bench, trying to keep it still and catch the lights of the Palace behind the rearing stallion (Spain has many rearing stone stallions).

    But this time we had the children with us, so we were drawn to Madrid’s Plazas for different reasons: letting them run around without driving us crazy and bothering everybody else. They:

    played ring-around-the-lamppost in Plaza Mayor,

    ran through the “mazes” of Plaza Oriente,

    played screaming chase across the plaza inside Palacio Real,

    and danced to the drummers in Monumento Alfonso XII.

    [audio http://texasgurl.fileave.com/mto-alfonso-drums.mp3]
    It was a fantastically easy way to enjoy the city and its people. The afternoon we spent at Mto. Alfonso we each struck up conversations with different people around us. The chickens kicked the futbol with a kid about Boyish’s age, while GoodLooking talked premier league man-talk with the boy’s father. There were old ladies feeding cats and pigeons, and I talked for a long time to a painter named Julian. The sun shone off the white pavement until it didn’t anymore, and so we packed up the buggy and began the long walk back to our hotel. The kids were exhausted and we kept thinking the Metro would be faster, but instead we just kept walking; walking, watching the people, marveling at the lights, totally under the spell of the magical streets of Madrid.

  • 29Oct

    Gooool-azo! [audio http://texasgurl.fileave.com/bernabeu-goalbest.mp3]

    On Wednesday, Real Madrid was playing at their home stadium, the Bernabeu (burn-uh-bau), versus Olympiakos. Good-Looking was hot to go there from the time we planned the trip, checking Real Madrid’s website early on on the off-chance they were playing at home during the week we would be there. When he found out they were, he was beside himself to go.

    The original plan was to ditch at least two of the chickens with Grandma for the evening, but her broken arm put a hitch in that giddy-up, fa’shizzle. She loves him so she actually suggested that she would go through with the babysitting for him, but I said no, no way would I leave her with a broken arm and my two rowdy eldest while I went out on the town. But throughout the day leading up to the game GoodLooking kept pushing, looking for a way to go. I said he could go by himself, but he wanted me to come. And of course I wanted to see it, but I wasn’t inclined to drag the whole family out to god-knows-where on the Metro, for an evening wedged in cramped seats among a bunch of screaming sports maniacs.

    And all day long we saw them: the Olympiakos fans in their red scarves and jackets, lining the streets, drinking coffee, milling around the plazas.

    Poor GoodLooking.

    See, I love this man, much as he annoys me sometimes. And I understood what this meant to him. About 10 years ago, he went to Camp Nou and saw F.C. Barcelona, Real Madrid’s arch rivals, play in their home stadium and he pretty much has not stopped talking about it since. He dragged me to Camp Neu for the tour last year when we came to Spain, and it was clear that although I could let him go to the Bernabeu alone, he wanted me there, and the only way I could be there was if the whole fam damily came along.

    So we went. I strapped Baybish on my back, bundled everybody up and headed out into the night. When we came up out of the Metro the stadium was glowing above us, the crowd was roaring and people were running to get inside. We were late, but Real Madrid won and we saw FOUR goals. And as I sat there, surrounded by my family, wrestling Baybish in my lap, my husband grinning and giggling, I thought: this right here will last me a good long while.

  • 28Oct
    Categories: Travel Comments: 0

    To wish you were me. Because the day we arrived? Not so good.

    On that day, my mother-in-law tripped on a stairway in the Metro on our way to the hotel, and BROKE HER ARM. So you know, three kids, four roller bags, a stroller, and one lovely grandmother with a broken arm. Metro Security, paramedics, an ambulance, the whole shebang. My good-looking husband is fluent, so he went with his mother, and I took the rest of the gang the rest of the way to the hotel.

    After my sister-in-law inspected the rooms, we decided on two triples at the end of the hallway with doors right next to each other. We set our things down in one of the rooms and headed out to get food. As I hung my coat in the wardrobe she asked me, “Are you unpacking?” or something like that, and I said no, I was just putting things away until we were all back together and we could see where Good-Looking’s mother and her broken arm wanted to be.

    Little did I know.

    After we ate some tapas up the street, I took the children to Plaza Mayor to run off some energy and wait for news from the hospital. GoodLooking and Grandma showed up not too long afterwards, and after they had some food and a few cocktails on the Plaza, GoodLooking and his sister went off to the pharmacy to fill Grandma’s prescriptions. I took her back to the hotel, where she took one room and I took the other. I unpacked a few things and got the chickens in their pjs.

    When GoodLooking and his sister returned, all hell broke loose. Because she wanted the other room. Wanted us–I think–to switch rooms right then, but Boyish was already asleep. So, she marched GoodLooking down to the desk to translate for her so she could move rooms. When that didn’t work, she proceeded to storm around the room they had, slamming windows and generally behaving like I had spit in her shoes or something. I honestly didn’t know what to make of it. I kept thinking I must have missed something, because the logic of her absolute fury over the whole thing was lost on me.

    The next day, we offered to change rooms. She refused and spent most of the morning trying to ignore me. She and her brother had a bit of a throw-down over it, and after that she softened up a bit. We put the whole thing (mostly) behind us for the rest of the trip. But we spent our days apart and met for dinner — which worked, since she wanted to eat at Burger King and shop for t-shirts, while I wanted local food and more traditional sightseeing.

    All in all a rather rotten start to what actually turned out to be a lovely trip. Which truly, I will tell you about, tomorrow.

  • 11Aug
    Categories: Germany, Travel Comments: 0

    Undergrdwalkway3

    Germany is so beautiful, so photogenic, so—well, it’s what everybody says about Germany, so I’ll go on and confirm it—so sparkling clean. It really is. And even the dirty bits are rather lovely in a gritty sort of way, as you can see from the graffiti-ridden underground walkway above. Notice there’s not even a gum-wrapper on the floor, and it looks as if someone might’ve just mopped it.

    The symmetry of the landscape just begs to be photographed, everywhere I’ve been. Even the pavement is pleasing to the eye:
    Pavement2

    We are here to for our dear friend Ingo’s mother’s 60th birthday bash, and we have been hanging out at her lovely (photogenic) home, eating like kings and queens and trying to keep our chickens from destroying the furniture. They set a magnificent table with creamy noodle-y food and local wines, and there is been coffee and dessert after every meal. My kids think they’ve died and gone to heaven. These are some shots I took in her house:
    Gianihouse7

    Gianihouse7_1

    Gianihouse6

    I speak about three words in German (I might be up to 10 or 15 by now), so spending time with a German family in their home has been sort of like being a toddler again. I can’t understand anything anyone is actually saying, so I have to glean all the meaning in every conversation around me by paying close attention to tone and context. It’s interesting because occasions that bring far-flung families close together—even happy occasions like a birthday celebrations—are fraught with complex dynamics and little tensions that are hard to read, even if you speak the language.

    So, today is the day of the party where the 150 close friends and family are gathering at local restaurant. Tomorrow is yet another, smaller party at the house, and Monday Ingo and Marsha head back to Los Angeles and we are taking a quick trip up the Rhine to see some more tidy villages and hopefully some castles. Germany is supposed to be riddled with castles, but I haven’t seen one yet.

    Oh, and it rains a lot in Germany, which I didn’t know. I don’t mind the rain, though, intermittent rain makes good light for photographs. And you can buy goofy umbrellas with ears on them.

    Waiting4atrain_2

    And today the sun is shining.

    Tags:
  • 01Aug

    I wanted to give a little rundown of some of my favorite New Orleans restaurants while I was there, but I was simply too drunk and too sated each night to write after returning to our hotel room from all our fabulous dining experiences. Plus, three chickens in a hotel room, however spacious, was interfering with my focused internet time.

    Royalblendweb

    Royal Blend Coffee & Tea, 621 Royal St. (504) 523-2716
    Has the loveliest coffeehouse courtyard in the Quarter. They serve good
    coffee and good food, but be prepared to wait. The pace is slow here.
    Chill by the fountain while your friend waits in line.

    Jaquesimoweb

    Jaques-Imo’s, 8324 Oak Street, 504-861-0886 http://www.jacquesimoscafe.com/main.htm
    They don’t take reservations for parties of less than five, and it’s
    difficult to get a reservation before 10pm on short notice. The bar is
    good, though, and the Maple Leaf, one of New Orleans’ best music venues
    is right next door. The food and atmosphere at Jaques-Imo’s is not to
    be missed—buttery cornbread and wilted spinach salad to start, topped
    with a perfectly-fried oyster. The fried chicken is famous, but I
    usually get the venison. Everything’s good, and do not leave with
    saying hello to Jaques. Don’t look for him in the kitchen, the
    photograph above was totally posed; you’ll find him in the bar.

    Grabbyjacks

    Grabby Jack’s, 428 Jefferson Hwy. (504) 833-CRAB (2722)
    Used to be The Louisiana Seafood Exchange, home of the best down-home overstuffed po boys in town. A bit off the beaten path—out past the Riverbend on Jefferson Highway—but well worth it for the freshest fried fish and oyster sandwiches in town. Nothing fancy, sandwiches come wrapped in butcher paper, and you can count on whatever you ordered to tumble out onto the paper for finger-lickin’ deliciousness. Jaques has added some creative offerings like fried green tomato and shrimp remolaude, rabbit, and his famous fried chicken lunches. Closed Sundays, and maybe Mondays, too.

    Plumstreetweb

    William’s Plum Street Sno-balls, 1300 Burdette Street 504-866-7996
    Everyone’s got their favorite snoball stand. This is mine. Nestled in the heart of an Uptown neighborhood off Carrollton Avenue, Plum Street Sno-balls has a line out the door all summer long. Still standing after the hurricane, and although FEMA trailers are abundant, the neighborhood was still pleasant to stroll through. I recommend the Nectar Cream.

    Bluebird1

    The Bluebird Café,3625 Prytania St, Lower Garden District,  504-895-7166
    Simply the best hangover breakfast in town. There will be a line after 9:30 on weekend mornings for pancakes that cover your whole plate with blueberries, pecans, bananas—or all three griddled right in. Huevos rancheros,  homefries, bottomless coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. So much goodness you’ll wish you had room for more. Closed Mondays and maybe Tuesdays, too, and only open until 2pm.

    I’ve already recommended Café Du Monde—it’s a pilgrimage, across from Jackson Square, and open 24-7.

    Adolfos

    Adolfo’s, 611 Frenchmen St, 504-948-3800 (cash only)
    A cozy little joint that’ll make you feel like a local for finding it. It’s upstairs from the Apple Barrel, where the drinks are bad and bartenders are rude. The chef, Adolfo, stowed away on a boat from somewhere in South America and jumped overboard somewhere along the Mississippi River many years ago (the story’s posted in a newspaper article on the bathroom wall) makes what he calls Creole-Italian cuisine—amazing cannelonis, pasta and fish with verde, shrimp and crawfish sauces. Café Brasil is just up the street for a fantastic post-dinner music scene that usually spills into the street.

    Lolasweb

    Lola’s, 3312 Esplanade Ave (504) 488-6946 (cash or local checks only).
    Located in Bayou St. John, Lola’s is known for the paellas and bread and butter so garlicky it burns your tongue. You can bring your own wine for a reasonable corkage fee, but don’t miss the sangria—they spoon a little fruit in your glass and pour it over. The best I’ve had in a good long while. Maybe ever.

    Monasweb

    Mona’s Cafe, 1120 S. Carrollton Ave. 861-8174.
    Lebanon Café, 1500 S. Carrollton Ave. 862-6200.
    For me, these two are practically interchangeable. Excellent fresh Middle Eastern fare—hoummus, tabouleh, and kebab. The Lebanese tea at Lebanon Café is made with rosewater, and it’s divine. Go for lunch, it’s not a fine-dining experience.

    Clovergrillweb

    Clover Grill, 900 Bourbon St., 504-598-1010
    Late night burgers, diner-style. Closes at midnight, and homophobes should dine elsewhere; prepare to be abused and/or flirted with shamelessly by the flaming waitstaff. At the foot of Bourbon Street—stumble on down.

  • 24Jul
    Categories: London, Me, Moving Comments: 0

    Winged Sunset, originally uploaded by texasgurl.

    I had big plans to do a sweet self-portrait of me and my chickens tonight, reading a story by lamplight in their sparsely-furnished bedroom—maybe in black and white—and write about how I am trying to help them regain some normalcy after all our travels. I wanted to say that I am trying to feed them earlier, and put them to bed on time, and settle into something of a routine again, because I love them and take good care of them and I am such a fantastic mother.

    You know how this story ends, right?

    So, since we landed in our new digs, Boyish has determined to discover what exactly will happen if he seriously injures his baby sister. He has pushed, kicked, and pulled her over onto the floor, the bedframe, the wooden train tracks strewn about the living room. The way I figure it, it’s only a matter of time until he discovers the stairs.

    So while I’m setting up our portrait, he saw that Babe-ish had his toothbrush (which he never uses) in her fat little fist. So he snatched it away, making her cry. I snatched it back, explaining how snatching is wrong, and gave it back to the her. He then grabbed some dental flossing thing that Girlish had gotten out and left on the floor (we’re really into dental hygiene around here) and began poking the baby on top of her sweet little head.

    She is only 9 months old—she still has a soft spot there, and what I do not need right now is a freak accident and a brain-damaged baby. Or my son psychologically scarred for life because of said freak accident and potential brain damage. So, since I am gunning for Meanest Mother of the Year, I grabbed his arm and yelled at him. He cried. She cried. I sat on the floor and tried not to cry. While they both climbed all over me, wailing. It was a Kodak moment.

    I read earlier, here, that jet-lag makes a person irritable. Who knew? I thought it was just the personal upheaval and transatlantic move. Honestly, I mean, it makes perfect sense—I can’t sleep; I’m utterly exhausted for a thousand reasons—the person I should be putting to bed early, apparently, is me.

  • 23Jul
    Categories: Books Comments: 0

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    The Book, originally uploaded by texasgurl.

    We arrived in London on Wednesday (? I think, it’s a bit of a blur), and stayed two nights in a Travelodge before moving over to our new apartment on Friday. The hotel was clean and serviceable, but no luxuries whatsoever. As in, no phone in the room, and we had to ask for more than one towel. And sit around in the lobby for um,  three hours because we had eight bags and they had no storage room to stash them for us until check in. But it was clean, so I will not complain. Any more.

    Exhausted

    We ferried a few things over to our new house (like a town house) over the next couple days, and met our landlords, who were just unbelievably lovely people. They are a family of four, and they are moving to the States for at least a couple of years, so it was interesting to compare notes. Fiona was the one we dealt with mostly, and she gave the me the skinny on where to buy children’s shoes and shop online for groceries, and introduced us to several neighbors and parents at her son’s school. While I sat in her living room picking her brain about all sorts of miscellania, Babe-ish did something clever (I forget what it was), and Fiona said, "My, you are a just bright button, aren’t you?" She was terribly terribly charming.

    We had a school interview for Girlish on Thursday at the local non-sectarian primary school, which has achieved an "outstanding" rating this past year. That is, apparently, a very rare occurrence, and so we were concerned that we might not be able to get her placed there. As it turns out, though, they have a place for her in Year 3, which was really exciting and a big relief for me (us). The only hitch is that the school where Fiona’s son attends, a Church of England school, has all of Fiona’s friends and neighbors and they all seem to really want us to come there. It’s not as highly-rated a school, but obviously the parental involvement and community there is very good. A sidenote: many public schools in London are religiously affiliated. The CoE school was rated as an "outstanding" school about 10 years ago, but hasn’t been so again since. And there’s the religious issue, which concerns me since I don’t go in for religion much, but the parents I met there assured me that it was very low-key.

    Oh, and our checked bags—the other 8 of them—were delayed in Cincinnati on the way over, so Rod had to taxi to the airport to pick them up Friday morning. It rained an absolute gully-washer that morning, and his taxi got stuck in a flood and we almost didn’t make our hotel checkout. A bit of drama. Finally, we got everything over to the new place, where Fiona was frantic with last-minute packing and errands, and then we cleared out until 7:30p.m., when she was planning to leave. When we returned we got to meet our new neighbors, who have 3 children: two boys, 9 & 7, and a girl, 5. All six kids hit it off famously, and after forcing Fiona to stop her frantic packing and have a cuppa tea, we hung out with Karen while she finished up. Karen’s going to be a great neighbor, I can tell. She has a northern England accent, which sounds almost Irish to me, and she’s as sweet as the ginger cake she served with our tea. Around 8:00 we moved back over to "our" house, and it was bliss, bliss, to just be in a place that was a space all our own. We put a few things away, made the beds, and popped some champagne.

    Last Ever

    Fiona had also given us, because she is so terribly unbelievably lovely, her ticket to claim the newly-released and final edition of Harry Potter, which became available at midnight Friday in the local bookstore. So Girlish and I headed out to the High Street (the main street in town with all the shops) around 11:30, and queued up with all the neighbors to claim the book. It was no problem staying up for it, as we are still jet-lagged in the late-night direction from our travels. People were in costume, and the bookstore owners walked up and down the queue, handing out cookies and punch, and wine for the grown-ups. Some of the parents I’d met earlier in the afternoon happened to line up right behind us, and so we chatted as we waited, and the whole the thing was an absolute blast.

    Yesterday we went to the store and bought groceries, which was also a bit of an adventure, the whole family hiking down the High Street with the stroller, bags and backpack for the groceries, with Babe-ish on my back. We stopped in a fruit & veg store, and also a butcher shop, and then on to a big grocery store for staples. I roasted a fresh chicken and some potatoes and red peppers for dinner, and I used some rosemary, sage, and oregano from Fiona’s (our!) garden.  The butcher-shop chicken was fresh—as in, I opened the plastic and gasped out loud because the drumsticks had feathers clinging to their heels. I took a deep breath and plucked them out. If I’m gonna eat chicken I might as well remember that it used to have feathers, I guess. It was worth getting over my squeamishness, though. I cooked it at 500 degrees for 50 minutes, rubbing its skin with salt and olive oil and stuffing its little body cavity with lemon, garlic, onion and Fiona’s fresh garden herbs. Little chicken, you did not give your life in vain; we thoroughly enjoyed you.

    So, we are well and happy, feeling so grateful to be just the slightest bit settled, and as soon as we get the phone up and running we will start calling all you friends and family that are waiting to hear from us.

    P.S. Girlish is already trying on her British accent. "Mommy, can I have some wat-ah?" and, "Ouch! That huhts!" She kills me.

  • 14Jul

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    Beignets at Cafe DuMonde, originally uploaded by texasgurl.

    Psst. Perhaps you didn’t notice, because of the green awnings and all, but this is not Starbucks. This is Café Du Monde. You don’t get it how you want it here, you get it how they bring it.

    They’re known for two things: beignets and café au lait. So just get that, okay? Because that’s basically all they have. There might be some water in bottles, and I think they have some juice or something, but you can buy juice at the gas station, right? Order your café au lait iced if you’re feeling fancy, but don’t get the juice or the bottled water, because the café au lait is their specialty. It goes perfectly with the beignets, and it’s what you want, whether you know it or not.

    So, your coffee–iced or hot–will be perfect, and it will arrive with three golden pillowy beignets, adrift in powdered sugar. And since powdered sugar is thirsty work, your courteous server will bring you a short glass of water. You don’t have to order the water; it just comes with the beignets. Every time.

    Finally, there are three beignets to an order. Not two. Not one. But three. Stop making an ass of yourself asking if they can bring you some other number, because they can’t, and they won’t. Believe it or not, once you start eating you will want  all three, and you won’t want to share. Or–nevermind. Go ahead and get a single order, and when you finish that, order another. Think of me when you do it.

    Cafe Du Monde
    So, remember, when they say, “What can I get for you?” your line is, “Two beignets and two café au laits.”

    Good luck.

  • 14Jul


    Jackson Square at Night, originally uploaded by texasgurl.

    New Orleans, where the wind blows warm and the air is so thick it has texture. The heat clings to you like something alive, coating your skin with a filmy sweat and settling, heavy and damp, in the fabric of your clothes. Where building interiors are so cold your glasses fog up when you step into the street, savoring that warmth–delicious only in those first moments after the doors close behind you, and where you consider carrying a sweater to wear inside.

    Where cold water down your back sends not the slightest tingle down your spine, and where each day you understand a bit more why the city is known for drunken revelry, crimes of passion, and steamy sex.

    The heat intensifies your emotions and blunts your rationality—you are pissed off, put out, horny as hell—you are acutely aware of every sensation in your body. Every little thing takes on a bloated significance, until you feel you might do anything, anything, to take your mind off this fucking heat.
    Ghost Girl

  • 14Jul

    Things are a bit different in New Orleans, and I was reminded of that immediately upon arriving in town.

    We had driven until 3am the night before, then crashed at a Comfort Inn outside Lafayette before continuing on the next morning. Ollie woke up at 7:30; so we all woke up at 7:30. I was working on less than 5 hours of sleep; the continental breakfast at the Chez’ Comfort had been absolutely inedible, and by the time we hit New Orleans it was almost noon and I hadn’t had even a drop of caffeine in any form.

    I wanted to hold out for PJ’s, New Orleans signature local coffee shop, but I spotted a Starbucks just in time for us to cross three lanes of traffic and pull into the parking lot next door. I jogged in and at the counter, I ordered my standard:

    “Grande percent one-pump vanilla latte, please.”

    A blank stare. “Grande what?”

    “Percent. Latte. With one pump of vanilla.”

    She squinted at me, and pronounced the syllables as if she were trying out a word in Farsi, “Per-cent?”

    I took a deep breath, and tried again. “Um, lowfat?”

    “You meant TWO percent?”

    “Right.”

    Please note that even though I had spent at least 10 of the last 15 hours in a car with three children and a cat, with no caffeine and with very little sleep, I did not say to her, “Please just give me my fucking coffee, you Moronic Bitch, before I rip your head off and eat it.” I tried to smile because, see, this is how it goes here.

    I am back in New Orleans.