• 06Nov

    What? Did you think I was through talking about Madrid?

    No, no, I’m not done. I’m still there, actually, in my heart.

    No matter what the time of day or night you find yourself out on the streets of Madrid, you will not be alone. It’s difficult to photograph landmarks in Madrid because in addition to composing the landscape, you have to take into account the timing of all the people passing by. They stroll the alleyways, murmur in the cafes around the perimeter of the plaza, and argue on the monument steps. It is a pleasure to find yourself among them.

    The Spanish are notoriusly late diners — the restaurant scene in Madrid begins around 9:00, is in full swing between 10 and 11:00, and by midnight, everyone’s stumbling out for after-dinner clubbing, drinks or churros y chocolat.

    I can’t speak to the nightlife in terms of clubs — even without three kids in tow that’s not really my thing — but Madrid is a gloriously lively late-night city. Last year, while I was pregnant with Baybish, GoodLooking and I ditched the chickens with Grandma & Grandaddy and took a pre-baby vacation to Spain. Alone. We had some lovely nights there, and one I will not soon forget was the night we strolled Plaza Oriente and took photographs of Palacio Real after midnight. It was a pivotal night in my photographic life, the night I first began to see how I could lost in trying to capture an image. I remember balancing my point-and-shoot Olympus on the back of a bench, trying to keep it still and catch the lights of the Palace behind the rearing stallion (Spain has many rearing stone stallions).

    But this time we had the children with us, so we were drawn to Madrid’s Plazas for different reasons: letting them run around without driving us crazy and bothering everybody else. They:

    played ring-around-the-lamppost in Plaza Mayor,

    ran through the “mazes” of Plaza Oriente,

    played screaming chase across the plaza inside Palacio Real,

    and danced to the drummers in Monumento Alfonso XII.

    [audio http://texasgurl.fileave.com/mto-alfonso-drums.mp3]
    It was a fantastically easy way to enjoy the city and its people. The afternoon we spent at Mto. Alfonso we each struck up conversations with different people around us. The chickens kicked the futbol with a kid about Boyish’s age, while GoodLooking talked premier league man-talk with the boy’s father. There were old ladies feeding cats and pigeons, and I talked for a long time to a painter named Julian. The sun shone off the white pavement until it didn’t anymore, and so we packed up the buggy and began the long walk back to our hotel. The kids were exhausted and we kept thinking the Metro would be faster, but instead we just kept walking; walking, watching the people, marveling at the lights, totally under the spell of the magical streets of Madrid.

  • 29Oct

    Gooool-azo! [audio http://texasgurl.fileave.com/bernabeu-goalbest.mp3]

    On Wednesday, Real Madrid was playing at their home stadium, the Bernabeu (burn-uh-bau), versus Olympiakos. Good-Looking was hot to go there from the time we planned the trip, checking Real Madrid’s website early on on the off-chance they were playing at home during the week we would be there. When he found out they were, he was beside himself to go.

    The original plan was to ditch at least two of the chickens with Grandma for the evening, but her broken arm put a hitch in that giddy-up, fa’shizzle. She loves him so she actually suggested that she would go through with the babysitting for him, but I said no, no way would I leave her with a broken arm and my two rowdy eldest while I went out on the town. But throughout the day leading up to the game GoodLooking kept pushing, looking for a way to go. I said he could go by himself, but he wanted me to come. And of course I wanted to see it, but I wasn’t inclined to drag the whole family out to god-knows-where on the Metro, for an evening wedged in cramped seats among a bunch of screaming sports maniacs.

    And all day long we saw them: the Olympiakos fans in their red scarves and jackets, lining the streets, drinking coffee, milling around the plazas.

    Poor GoodLooking.

    See, I love this man, much as he annoys me sometimes. And I understood what this meant to him. About 10 years ago, he went to Camp Nou and saw F.C. Barcelona, Real Madrid’s arch rivals, play in their home stadium and he pretty much has not stopped talking about it since. He dragged me to Camp Neu for the tour last year when we came to Spain, and it was clear that although I could let him go to the Bernabeu alone, he wanted me there, and the only way I could be there was if the whole fam damily came along.

    So we went. I strapped Baybish on my back, bundled everybody up and headed out into the night. When we came up out of the Metro the stadium was glowing above us, the crowd was roaring and people were running to get inside. We were late, but Real Madrid won and we saw FOUR goals. And as I sat there, surrounded by my family, wrestling Baybish in my lap, my husband grinning and giggling, I thought: this right here will last me a good long while.

  • 28Oct
    Categories: Travel Comments: 0

    To wish you were me. Because the day we arrived? Not so good.

    On that day, my mother-in-law tripped on a stairway in the Metro on our way to the hotel, and BROKE HER ARM. So you know, three kids, four roller bags, a stroller, and one lovely grandmother with a broken arm. Metro Security, paramedics, an ambulance, the whole shebang. My good-looking husband is fluent, so he went with his mother, and I took the rest of the gang the rest of the way to the hotel.

    After my sister-in-law inspected the rooms, we decided on two triples at the end of the hallway with doors right next to each other. We set our things down in one of the rooms and headed out to get food. As I hung my coat in the wardrobe she asked me, “Are you unpacking?” or something like that, and I said no, I was just putting things away until we were all back together and we could see where Good-Looking’s mother and her broken arm wanted to be.

    Little did I know.

    After we ate some tapas up the street, I took the children to Plaza Mayor to run off some energy and wait for news from the hospital. GoodLooking and Grandma showed up not too long afterwards, and after they had some food and a few cocktails on the Plaza, GoodLooking and his sister went off to the pharmacy to fill Grandma’s prescriptions. I took her back to the hotel, where she took one room and I took the other. I unpacked a few things and got the chickens in their pjs.

    When GoodLooking and his sister returned, all hell broke loose. Because she wanted the other room. Wanted us–I think–to switch rooms right then, but Boyish was already asleep. So, she marched GoodLooking down to the desk to translate for her so she could move rooms. When that didn’t work, she proceeded to storm around the room they had, slamming windows and generally behaving like I had spit in her shoes or something. I honestly didn’t know what to make of it. I kept thinking I must have missed something, because the logic of her absolute fury over the whole thing was lost on me.

    The next day, we offered to change rooms. She refused and spent most of the morning trying to ignore me. She and her brother had a bit of a throw-down over it, and after that she softened up a bit. We put the whole thing (mostly) behind us for the rest of the trip. But we spent our days apart and met for dinner — which worked, since she wanted to eat at Burger King and shop for t-shirts, while I wanted local food and more traditional sightseeing.

    All in all a rather rotten start to what actually turned out to be a lovely trip. Which truly, I will tell you about, tomorrow.