• 28Aug
    Categories: Me, Moving, writing Comments: 7

    Sorry for all the not-posting, everyone, but I have been busy. I am applying to grad school. Again. Not because I didn’t get in the first time, but because unexpected events meant I couldn’t go. See exhibit A:

    In the Park Near the Travelodge

    Then, my planned deferral for this year got derailed by our decision to move to London. I posted about that here.

    And I thought, you know, that I’d wait awhile before trying to do something again. Maybe take some photography courses in the meantime. But as the deadlines for the low-residency programs at Bennington and Warren Wilson rolled around again, I couldn’t get it out of my head. I dabble in photography and blogging is fun, but a personal essayist I am not (ask Ann) and my photographic skills are pretty mediocre. Fiction is what I do best, and even if it’s not good enough I’m still better at that than anything else. And so I have to give it a shot. To see what I can do if I REALLY focus on it, and give it the time and attention I never seem to be able to otherwise.

    Really, no matter what it costs, I have to try. Because nothing else is as important to me–except maybe my chickens. And sometimes not even them.

    Tags:
  • 16Aug
    Categories: London, Me, Moving Comments: 0

    My pans. When oh, when will my pans arrive? Fiona left us a couple of pans, a few dishes, a mixing bowl, 2 cookie sheets and some flatware. Some odd glasses and mugs. I favor the one with sketches of Pooh Bear, not because I love Pooh, but because it is the largest. The pans are crap. I would have left them behind, too. They heat up, in like one spot, exactly where the burner is touching them, and despite the nonstick coating everything sticks to them and I have burned more in the last month than in the last ten years.

    I miss my mugs. I miss the small brown clay one, round like a ball in the palm of my hand, with its rough exterior and carefully finger-painted stripes, its smooth green interior. I miss the blue clay one, with its faded suggestion of a dragonfly on the side, the one that feels as if it was made for my hand, fatter and thicker at the bottom and more narrow at the chipped rim, so my tea stays warm.

    I miss my teapots.

    My pans are Calphalon, by the way. They are thick and heavy and they get hot fast; they heat evenly.

    I know I’m rambling but I also miss my clothes. I thought I brought enough to get by with Babe-ish, but she has outgrown just about everything in her drawers. And I miss our drawers.

    I miss putting my children to sleep in their beds, and I wish I had their furniture so I could set up their rooms and put out their toys and make them more at home here.

    I miss my books. My god, I really miss my books. I have a list of them that I use to make sure I’m actually reading all the books I buy, and today I was looking at that list and wishing I had any one of those books here so I could read them. I am working on a story about mental illness, told in the second person, and I need my Lorrie Moore, my Julie Orringer, my Mark Haddon.

    Because I have been feeling this way, I have been calling the movers, trying to get some sort of status report on our things. I called before we left for Germany, trying to talk to “Dave,” some guy who was supposed to know how to help us. Dave was out, but he’d be back around 2:00. So I called back at 2:00, and Dave was busy, could he call me back? Sure, I said, leaving my California number–we have, via the marvels of modern technology, ported our old number so that it rings in our house in London. It couldn’t be easier, really for Dave and his people to call us back. So, of course, he never called.

    When I returned from Germany, I called. Because of the time difference, I was able to call the night I got in, after taking one plane, three trains and a cab to get to our house. Dave was unavailable, could he call me back tomorrow?

    I called on Wednesday, and Dave was—you guessed it—on the phone, and could he call me back?

    Today, I had no illusions, really, that Dave might call. I called him, but I was prepared to tell Andy or Joe or whoever happened to answer the phone that I had called three days in a row, and twice last week, and I was prepared to wait for Dave to come the phone. Tell him it’s me again; tell him I’m waiting, please.

    So, I talked to Dave just now, and he told me, yeah, he needed my address so he could send me a FedEx with some paperwork they needed.

    I gave him the address and asked what sort of paperwork? “Oh, copies of your passports, a couple other things, then we can ship your stuff out.”

    “Okay,” I said, not getting it, “Has it arrived in London, then?”

    “No, ma’am,” he said, “It’s still sitting in our warehouse in Oakland.”

    * * *

    I could go on, obviously. I could tell you exactly what I said to him, about why no had one called me for 60 days to let me know they needed some “paperwork,” about how I had FedExed them money to expedite the shipment and had called them repeatedly, and was never told anything about “paperwork”; about how I was practically camping in an apartment with 3 children in London, waiting on our things, and even, about how my baby was fucking outgrowing her clothes waiting for them to arrive, and could he please, rather than making me wait on the international mail, just tell me what they needed, and work with me to expedite it so that our stuff could leave the mother-fucking dock, like, yesterday two months ago?

    I am trying to get my head around this. I am getting ready to write some letters. I will not. Cry. I will not cry. I won’t.

  • 11Aug
    Categories: Germany, Travel Comments: 0

    Undergrdwalkway3

    Germany is so beautiful, so photogenic, so—well, it’s what everybody says about Germany, so I’ll go on and confirm it—so sparkling clean. It really is. And even the dirty bits are rather lovely in a gritty sort of way, as you can see from the graffiti-ridden underground walkway above. Notice there’s not even a gum-wrapper on the floor, and it looks as if someone might’ve just mopped it.

    The symmetry of the landscape just begs to be photographed, everywhere I’ve been. Even the pavement is pleasing to the eye:
    Pavement2

    We are here to for our dear friend Ingo’s mother’s 60th birthday bash, and we have been hanging out at her lovely (photogenic) home, eating like kings and queens and trying to keep our chickens from destroying the furniture. They set a magnificent table with creamy noodle-y food and local wines, and there is been coffee and dessert after every meal. My kids think they’ve died and gone to heaven. These are some shots I took in her house:
    Gianihouse7

    Gianihouse7_1

    Gianihouse6

    I speak about three words in German (I might be up to 10 or 15 by now), so spending time with a German family in their home has been sort of like being a toddler again. I can’t understand anything anyone is actually saying, so I have to glean all the meaning in every conversation around me by paying close attention to tone and context. It’s interesting because occasions that bring far-flung families close together—even happy occasions like a birthday celebrations—are fraught with complex dynamics and little tensions that are hard to read, even if you speak the language.

    So, today is the day of the party where the 150 close friends and family are gathering at local restaurant. Tomorrow is yet another, smaller party at the house, and Monday Ingo and Marsha head back to Los Angeles and we are taking a quick trip up the Rhine to see some more tidy villages and hopefully some castles. Germany is supposed to be riddled with castles, but I haven’t seen one yet.

    Oh, and it rains a lot in Germany, which I didn’t know. I don’t mind the rain, though, intermittent rain makes good light for photographs. And you can buy goofy umbrellas with ears on them.

    Waiting4atrain_2

    And today the sun is shining.

    Tags:
  • 07Aug

    I just had to share it. Thanks to Retired Geezer–found him here–for turning me on to this.

  • 07Aug
    Categories: chores Comments: 5

    The Old System:
    Sacwashrdryer

    There are things I’ve wondered about, and things I’ve worried about in undertaking this move, but perhaps the greatest of these has been: how will I do laundry for 3 kids, 1 sloppy husband, and my marginally-messy self with no dryer, and a washing machine that has a drum approximately the diameter of a dinnerplate? And if you think I’m lying, or exaggerating my worries, consider this: I took a glossy wide-angle picture of my washer and dryer the night we moved out.

    I don’t mean to trivialize the overseas experience by any means, but laundry is a daily part of life, and a daily part of my life that I was feeling like I spent too much time on in America, where I had the $2600 top-of-the-line Kenmore HE4 High-Efficiency washing and drying machine system you see above with like, four cubic feet of capacity for each machine.

    The New System:

    Londonwasher

    Washer-dryer capacity is measured in kilos here, so I don’t have a mathematical comparison of the two systems, but suffice to say that I could wash an American king-sized quilt and a set of sheets in my old washer, and here, I think people take their blankets to the cleaners when they need washing. I’ve seen signs in the windows advertising blanket washing for £7, I think. That’s $14, people.

    When shopping for apartments in April, it was the first thing I noticed. Most of the apartments we looked at had washers, but none of them—NONE of them—had dryers. How could this be, I wondered? How do people with children, living in a climate where it rains all winter long (and apparently, half the summer, too) wash clothes and sheets and towels with any sort of efficiency or regularity without a dryer? Were their homes just jungles of drying laundry inside? I couldn’t imagine it. See, in addition to my laundry issues I also wage an ongoing, extremely unsuccessful battle against clutter at my house. If Laundry teams up with Clutter on me, I might as well wave a white pair of undershorts out my front window and surrender: the war is lost.

    And one little aside about the towels: do people here honestly dry off daily with crispy air-dried towels and not mind at all? Really?

    I asked Fiona (my landlord) where she dried clothes in the wintertime and she said she just hung them around the house on the radiators. At my next-door neighbor’s house I spotted fluffy towels on the back of her couch, waiting to be taken upstairs, and so I asked her if she had a dryer. Well. You would’ve thought I caught her eating dirt or something. I swear ta God, y’all, this lovely woman and mother of three busy children was embarrassed about her dryer. “Oh, I’m just lazy,” she said. “But it’s convenient, you know. This way I only have to have one set of sheets for each bed because I can dry them and put them back on the same day.”

    And that’s what it comes down to, I realized. Being happy you only have to have one set of sheets. People here use less. Less everything. They don’t need walk-in closets to store their extra clothes because they don’t keep extra clothes. They don’t have enormous pantries because they don’t load up their minivan with groceries at Costco—they walk to the store and haul their food home on the bus or roll it up the street in a little cart. They don’t have eight combined cubic feet of washing and drying system because they don’t need it. And neither do I.

    So I have learned something already, and that’s good.

    But I am still totally buying a dryer.

  • 01Aug

    I wanted to give a little rundown of some of my favorite New Orleans restaurants while I was there, but I was simply too drunk and too sated each night to write after returning to our hotel room from all our fabulous dining experiences. Plus, three chickens in a hotel room, however spacious, was interfering with my focused internet time.

    Royalblendweb

    Royal Blend Coffee & Tea, 621 Royal St. (504) 523-2716
    Has the loveliest coffeehouse courtyard in the Quarter. They serve good
    coffee and good food, but be prepared to wait. The pace is slow here.
    Chill by the fountain while your friend waits in line.

    Jaquesimoweb

    Jaques-Imo’s, 8324 Oak Street, 504-861-0886 http://www.jacquesimoscafe.com/main.htm
    They don’t take reservations for parties of less than five, and it’s
    difficult to get a reservation before 10pm on short notice. The bar is
    good, though, and the Maple Leaf, one of New Orleans’ best music venues
    is right next door. The food and atmosphere at Jaques-Imo’s is not to
    be missed—buttery cornbread and wilted spinach salad to start, topped
    with a perfectly-fried oyster. The fried chicken is famous, but I
    usually get the venison. Everything’s good, and do not leave with
    saying hello to Jaques. Don’t look for him in the kitchen, the
    photograph above was totally posed; you’ll find him in the bar.

    Grabbyjacks

    Grabby Jack’s, 428 Jefferson Hwy. (504) 833-CRAB (2722)
    Used to be The Louisiana Seafood Exchange, home of the best down-home overstuffed po boys in town. A bit off the beaten path—out past the Riverbend on Jefferson Highway—but well worth it for the freshest fried fish and oyster sandwiches in town. Nothing fancy, sandwiches come wrapped in butcher paper, and you can count on whatever you ordered to tumble out onto the paper for finger-lickin’ deliciousness. Jaques has added some creative offerings like fried green tomato and shrimp remolaude, rabbit, and his famous fried chicken lunches. Closed Sundays, and maybe Mondays, too.

    Plumstreetweb

    William’s Plum Street Sno-balls, 1300 Burdette Street 504-866-7996
    Everyone’s got their favorite snoball stand. This is mine. Nestled in the heart of an Uptown neighborhood off Carrollton Avenue, Plum Street Sno-balls has a line out the door all summer long. Still standing after the hurricane, and although FEMA trailers are abundant, the neighborhood was still pleasant to stroll through. I recommend the Nectar Cream.

    Bluebird1

    The Bluebird Café,3625 Prytania St, Lower Garden District,  504-895-7166
    Simply the best hangover breakfast in town. There will be a line after 9:30 on weekend mornings for pancakes that cover your whole plate with blueberries, pecans, bananas—or all three griddled right in. Huevos rancheros,  homefries, bottomless coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. So much goodness you’ll wish you had room for more. Closed Mondays and maybe Tuesdays, too, and only open until 2pm.

    I’ve already recommended Café Du Monde—it’s a pilgrimage, across from Jackson Square, and open 24-7.

    Adolfos

    Adolfo’s, 611 Frenchmen St, 504-948-3800 (cash only)
    A cozy little joint that’ll make you feel like a local for finding it. It’s upstairs from the Apple Barrel, where the drinks are bad and bartenders are rude. The chef, Adolfo, stowed away on a boat from somewhere in South America and jumped overboard somewhere along the Mississippi River many years ago (the story’s posted in a newspaper article on the bathroom wall) makes what he calls Creole-Italian cuisine—amazing cannelonis, pasta and fish with verde, shrimp and crawfish sauces. Café Brasil is just up the street for a fantastic post-dinner music scene that usually spills into the street.

    Lolasweb

    Lola’s, 3312 Esplanade Ave (504) 488-6946 (cash or local checks only).
    Located in Bayou St. John, Lola’s is known for the paellas and bread and butter so garlicky it burns your tongue. You can bring your own wine for a reasonable corkage fee, but don’t miss the sangria—they spoon a little fruit in your glass and pour it over. The best I’ve had in a good long while. Maybe ever.

    Monasweb

    Mona’s Cafe, 1120 S. Carrollton Ave. 861-8174.
    Lebanon Café, 1500 S. Carrollton Ave. 862-6200.
    For me, these two are practically interchangeable. Excellent fresh Middle Eastern fare—hoummus, tabouleh, and kebab. The Lebanese tea at Lebanon Café is made with rosewater, and it’s divine. Go for lunch, it’s not a fine-dining experience.

    Clovergrillweb

    Clover Grill, 900 Bourbon St., 504-598-1010
    Late night burgers, diner-style. Closes at midnight, and homophobes should dine elsewhere; prepare to be abused and/or flirted with shamelessly by the flaming waitstaff. At the foot of Bourbon Street—stumble on down.